Drawn wooden nickel mark: two concentric rings with a notch

Wooden Nickel Home

Vintage mid-century furniture and Scandinavian home decor with modern bohemian accents

Line drawing of interlocking dovetail pins and tails at a drawer corner

Reading a dovetail drawer

Pull a drawer all the way out and turn it on its side. The corner joint will tell you more about the piece than the finish ever does, and it takes about four seconds to read once you know what you are looking at.

Hand-cut dovetails are uneven. The pins are narrow, often narrower than a pencil, and the spacing wanders a little because a person laid them out with a marking gauge and a bevel. You will usually see a faint scribe line running across the end grain where the gauge was set, and that line does not stop at the joint. It runs the full width of the board because the maker scored it in one pass.

Machine-cut dovetails from the late nineteenth century onward are the opposite. The pins and tails are the same width as each other, the spacing repeats exactly, and there is no scribe line at all. Neither is better. A drawer cut on a jig in 1958 can outlast a hand-cut one from 1890 if the wood was dry and the glue was good.

Drawer sides are the quiet indicator. Solid timber sides, usually a secondary species like poplar, birch or pine, mean the drawer was built as a box. Look at the bottom panel too: a thin solid panel that sits in a groove and is free to move is an older habit, while a plywood bottom stapled into a rebate is later work.

Earlier entries

Teak oil and what it actually does

Teak oil is the most misunderstood bottle on the shelf. It is not pressed from teak, it does not feed the timber, and it is not one formula. Most tins hold a thinned blend of a drying oil, usually linseed or tung, with a varnish component and a solvent to make it flow.

What it does is soak a short distance into the surface fibres and then cure there, hardening in contact with air. The result is a finish that lives just below the surface rather than sitting on top of it as a film. That is why an oiled piece looks like wood rather than like a wood-coloured sheet of plastic, and it is why oiled surfaces mark so easily.

Measuring a wall before you hang anything

Almost every badly hung picture in a house is hung too high. The eye expects the centre of a picture to sit at standing eye level, which for most rooms works out somewhere between 145 and 155 centimetres from the floor, and a picture hung above that line reads as floating.

The arithmetic is simple enough to do on the back of an envelope. Take the height of the frame and halve it. Add the number you want for the centre line. Then subtract the drop, which is the distance from the top edge of the frame down to the taut hanging wire or the hook plate. The result is where the nail goes.

The case for keeping a worn finish

The first instinct with an old piece is to strip it back and start again. It is worth sitting on that instinct for a week, because a stripped surface can never be unstripped and the wear pattern that annoys you is often the most interesting thing about the object.

A finish records use. The lighter band along the front edge of a desk is where forearms rested. The dull ring on a side table is a glass. The paler patch on a chair arm is a hand, thousands of times. Sanding that away produces a surface with no history and, very often, a pale bruised look where the old colour was only ever skin deep.

Wax versus varnish on a tabletop

A tabletop takes more punishment than any other horizontal surface in a house, and the choice of finish is really a choice about who does the maintenance and when.

Wax is a soft surface coat. It buffs to a low shine, feels wonderful under a hand, and offers almost no resistance to water or heat. A wet glass left on waxed timber will leave a white ring within the hour. The ring is usually shallow enough to be buffed out, which is the trade: easy to damage, easy to repair, and the repair needs no skill.

Tightening a loose chair joint

A chair that creaks is telling you that one joint has opened. Ignoring it is the expensive option, because a loose joint grinds itself oval every time somebody sits down, and an oval mortise is a much harder problem than a loose one.

The cause is almost always the same. Old animal glue is brittle and gives up, or the timber has shrunk across its width during years of dry indoor heat. The joint itself is usually undamaged.